Cadgwith

Visiting Cornwall for the first time, to me Cadgwith embodies the essence of Cornwall: an idyllic but unpretentious fishing village nestled in a cove flanked by dramatic seaside cliffs, protected from the forces of wind and sea. A few rows of sombre and time-worn stone cottages stand facing the port, on which fishing boats rest fastened. While seagulls rest on the tops of the thatched or tiled roofs and the villagers beneath, both make their living from fishing. The harmony and the no-nonsense way of life lend this medieval village an air of authenticity, and made me feel out of place like nowhere else in Cornwall. Perhaps this is the best measure of how unaffected a settlement is by tourism.

Mousehole

With a more intimate port with quieter waters, less fishing boats and more holiday-makers, this is a less solemn-looking village than Cadgwith. Two venerable breakwaters stand at the harbour with a view of St. Michael's Mount between them.

Fowey, Polperro

Fowey stands at the mouth of the eponymous River Fowey and on the opposite side of Polruan. A view of the village along the estuary can be had while taking the car ferry across the river. Equipped with shops, accomodations and a museum, it serves as an ideal base from which to explore nearby villages, one of which is Polperro. We arrived on an early morning and witnessed its relatively 'dormant' side before its busy tourist traffic started. With its rows of houses of varied colour, shapes and sizes tucked away in an L-shaped harbour that extended inland, it is vibrant and lively even before people started to get out and play. Just outside the harbour is a headland with rather jagged features. Situated on it is Peak Rock, upon which stands an abandoned and storm-battered chapel-converted storage for fishing nets now called the Net Loft. This rocky outcrop with its solitary chapel is in striking contrast to the quaint and somewhat more lighthearted village itself.